Niagara Falls

The Canadian Falls from the gorge

Niagara Falls...step by step...inch by inch - Vaudeville routine

It used to be that people remembered that particular Three Stooges routine (also performed by Abbot and Costello, Lucille Ball, and many others in vaudeville where it was a standard). Now I don't find many people, usually the young, who, when asked, even remember the Stooges. Ah well, as they say, things change and the once familiar becomes the arcane knowledge of another generation.

And who exactly are these 'they' and why do they say these things?

I used to think of Niagara Falls as the universal home town, mainly because everyone has heard of it. It always seemed to have the small town feeling and in many ways still does. I lived on the south end, in a quiet residential section, right across from a park - more like a large playground, with baseball diamonds, swing sets, a teeter-totter and a sand box, all right across the road from the house I grew up in. Very handy for a growing lad. I hadn't really thought much about the Falls for years, almost all my relations had either moved on or passed on and so there was no real reason for my going to visit it. What changed all that was when I signed up for sightseeing training with Greyhound Canada.

Greyhound has the Grey Line sightseeing franchise from Toronto and they needed drivers to take visitors on day excursions to the Falls and the vicinity. I figured, why not me? I've been there. I even know where it is. For a sightseeing driver it meant daylight driving (usually) which was nice, a chance to meet and entertain people from all over the world, and a change from the regular 'line runs' we do for work. So I studied and then went down with a number of other drivers to write the test and to become a licensed tour guide. I have to re-write the test every year. Can you imagine the embarrassment of failing the test on your home town?

I never really knew a lot of the 'particulars' of the history of the area until I had to study to do the tours. So now I've learned the whos and the whys and the wheres, volumes of water, heights of the falls' (there's really more than one you know), amounts of erosion, and a hundred other details about the falls and area. I didn't stop there, when I was asked a question that I didn't have a ready answer to I'd research and find out, possibly adding that little tidbit to the tour. Also extra reading has added to my knowledge, like who was the visitor named Charles Lyle and how did he help to change the view of the world, and who was Nikola Tesla was and why he is so important. I'm still learning about Niagara Falls.

I'm leaving a lot of teasers in this script, I know, but if I go into detail we'll be here all day.

Once I started conducting the tours I also started remembering more of what it was like to grow up there and actually incorporated some of the personal things, personal touches, into my commentary which the people seemed to like very much because it became for them a much more personal tour. I'd start off, back in Toronto at the terminal, by introducing myself as I walked the aisle of the bus, making contact for the first time really with the whole group, and saying that I was going to take them on a tour of my home town, the place where I was born, where I was raised, and where I couldn't wait to move away from. This would always get a laugh. The funny thing is that now, after all this time away, I've actually been considering moving back.

Now, why would I say I couldn't wait to move away from the place? Well, the Falls is weird in a way. It's definitely a tourist town. When I was growing up it had a population of approximately 68,000-69,000 people - although that number could for some reason vary according to which population sign you were looking at posted at which end of town. Now, the population is around 85,000 people which isn't enormous growth considering that over 35 years had gone by since I last lived there. It really hasn't grown all that much (except for the hotel boom along the top of the embankment). The reasons are various but I believe part of the reason is because there's not much of an industrial base for the city, well any more. 

I think that many industries first located around Niagara Falls in order to make use of the hydroelectricly generated power, but when transmission became easier and cheaper those same industries could locate closer to their markets, like Toronto, so several industries moved away, 

Many people, particularly the young, would move away from the area, for jobs or for higher education or a combination of the two, like I did. Many of the jobs that remain in the Falls are in the hospitality sector because the town is very much rooted in tourism as you might imagine (and now it's also a casino destination), and although that may have kept it's population size rather limited it has also kept it's physical size fairly small and thus, to my mind, preserving some of that home town feel. 

What do I remember from my growing up? I can remember on the rarest of occasions slamming the screen door and stepping outside from my house on Arad Street and, if all the conditions were just right, just perfect, I could feel the faint breath from the mist from the falls on the skin of my face; that on quiet days I could even hear the voice of the falls from my house. I only lived about a mile away from the embankment overlooking the falls (back in those days a mile was a mile and there were none of those pesky kilometers around for hundreds and hundreds of miles in any direction).

On long summer days I would either go for a walk (sometimes clambering down the embankment into the park that parallels the river) or bike down to the park to stare at the tourists and their antics, and the license plates from vehicles from all over North America and sometimes beyond, or I would spend most of the day at the local swimming hole - and if you're from the south end of town like I was you'd usually go to a rather special place, an indentation of the Niagara River, which was called Dufferin Islands.

There has always been a carnival side to Niagara Falls, again on tours I'd refer to it as the dark side of Niagara. Clifton Hill, one of the major tourist areas, has always looked gaudy, but in recent years that tackiness seems to have been escalated with a new profusion of attractions; Ripley's Believe It Or Not vies with the House of Frankenstein to entice people to part with their cash and enter their doors. There are lights and barkers and souvenir shops in profusion. Some of the people on the tours I conducted have likened it to Blackpool in England. One change that I noted was that one of the landmark attractions, Madame Tussauds Wax Museum, has moved away from it's former place on the lower hill (where the character of Blondin used to stand on top of cables suspended over the street as if walking the tightrope over the falls) to a spot further up and around the corner on Victoria Avenue.

Oakes Garden Theatre

One of the best kept secrets of Niagara Falls Ontario is a little place just down the hill from all the glitz and the lights of Clifton Hill. Oakes Garden Theatre is a wonderful place to get away from the hustle and bustle and the bodies en masse. Here you can sit on a park bench under a manicured tree and take in the sights and the sounds. Walkways lead you through garden areas and over a bridge leading to a beautiful pergola which sits just above an expanse of lawn and overlooking one of the falls, the American, one of the true spectacles of nature.

Oakes Garden - side nearest the river and falls

Oakes Garden staircase

Wind on the American Falls

 I have a rant I like to do about the American Falls by the way but I won't get into it here.

Rocks below the American Falls

The Canadian Falls, or as it's also known 'the Horseshoe Falls', is very wet due to the impossible amount of water which passes over it (cha) on it's way down the river traveling between Lake Erie to the south to Lake Ontario in the north (that's right, the river flows north). It's phenomenally wet. Consider that one third of the standing fresh water in the world uses this watercourse in it's travel toward the sea. That's phenomenal. 

The down side of the fact of all that water is that I find that it makes the Canadian Falls just one of those things which is almost impossible to photograph and give it justice, like the Grand Canyon. There's just too much of it. Most views of this falls are taken from a distance in order to fit the whole thing in, but then it loses some of it's impact. Most of the close-up images of the falls, like those taken at the brink, often just look like slices of green water (yes, the water is a beautiful color of green) with people's backs facing it, and the background of these images are often obscured by mist, although sometimes punctuated by rainbow (I think of Niagara Falls as 'rainbow central'. Because of the amount of water vapor in the air when the sun is out you often see rainbows, sometimes more than one at a time.). For both of those reasons the only photograph that I've included here of the Horseshoe Falls is the one that heads up this post. 

The American Falls from below

And in this little story I haven't talked about many things, the Falls in winter, much of the history, other sights and attractions like the scow, the aerial car, the floral clock, power plants, and more and then some. I had to keep it brief because, really, my main intention was to show you a few pictures. I hope you enjoy them, and I hope they are a bit different from the ones you normally see.

All photographs taken by Colin Campbell

Carousel

All photographs by Colin Campbell

Joni Mitchell, The Circle Game

And the seasons they go round and round

And the painted ponies go up and down

Were captive on the carousel of time

We cant return we can only look behind

From where we came

And go round and round and round

In the circle game

The Hollies, On A Carousel

Riding along on a carousel
Trying to catch up to you
Riding along on a carousel
Will I catch up to you

Horses chasing 'cause they're racing
So near yet so far
On a carousel, on a carousel

What do you think of when you hear the word carousel? Do you immediately think of the amusement ride (also called a merry-go-round or roundabout), or are you more likely to think of the thing at the airport that brings your luggage (if lucky) to the claim area after your flight? Say, does anybody remember the other type of carousel, the plastic thing that held your slides and transparencies and allowed them to be slotted into a projector one at a time so that the images could be shown on a screen? Anyone? No-one? I guess in this age of computers and digital media nobody want to admit to such ancient technology? 

I was actually thinking of the first meaning for the word as mentioned in the last paragraph. Again, as I've stated before, being from Niagara Falls Ontario I have this carnival side to my being; an appreciation for cotton candy, the sound of steam pipe organs, and the love of lights and glitter and glitz. For many years too I have been a fan of the 'kiddie' ride, the carousel, with the beautiful prancing ponies (the variations that have wild animals et al I'm not so keen on) going endlessly round and round. I've always liked them, though when I think about it I don't believe that I ever actually came across one in Niagara Falls itself. Hmmm. Anyway, I have always marveled at the figures of the animals.

There is something else happening here though and often you only see it if you divorce yourself from all the other distractions going on around you. Now that you have taken a breath and centered your attention take a look at the expressions on the horses' faces. Often what you see is that the animal depicted is frightened, often terrified, and the idea that comes to my mind is that these creatures are not leaping for joy, they are running for their lives.

Interesting isn't it?

And don't get me started about clown faces when seen close up. Now those are really scary.

Okay, History 101.Where does the word originate from?

Here's an entry I found for it on the web.

The earliest carousel is known from a Byzantine Empire bas-relief dating to around 500 A.D., which depicts riders in baskets suspended from a central pole. The word carousel originates from the Italian garosello and Spanish carosella ("little war"), used by crusaders to describe a combat preparation exercise and game played by Turkish and Arabian horsemen in the 1100s. In a sense this early device could be considered a cavalry training mechanism; it prepared and strengthened the riders for actual combat as they wielded their swords at the mock enemies. European Crusaders discovered this contraption and brought the idea back to their own lands, primarily the ruling lords and kings. There the carousel was kept secret within the castle walls, to be used for training by horsemen; no carousel was allowed out in the public. Eventually some small carousel rides were made and installed for royalty in their private gardens. Soon after that, with the pomp of France and circumstance of Paris a grand game was devised and played in Le Place du Carrousel. Along with a pageantry-filled jousting tournament it also consisted of "combatants" throwing clay balls filled with perfumed water at each other, thus those being hit would smell for days. A highlight of the carrousel was the ring-tilt, in which knights would attempt to spear suspended rings at full gallop.

Now that puts an interesting wrinkle in the idea of the innocent little ride, doesn't it? And when you think of it it also goes a long way to explain the expressions you see on the horse's faces.

All this verbiage here and all I wanted to do was show you a couple of photographs that I had taken of a nice little carousel I saw in Seattle a couple of years back, near the Space Needle and Science Fiction Museum.

The Tenth Muse

                    Infrared Rose

Way back in ancient times, or what my kids might thing of as ancient times, well, before they were born anyway, I took photographs with infrared film, specifically black and white negative film (although I did shoot some infrared slide film, but this isn't about that). It was a bit of a process because of a couple of things: the film speed was slow, you had to shoot through a filter (dark red is the one I used to use), and once you had focused on your subject or scene you had to compensate for the shift to infrared. Also you had to load and unload your camera in absolute darkness which also could be a pain. The images were different too, in a day and age when many people were (and still are) striving to create the clearest, the sharpest of images possible, infrared introduced the subtle distortion of grain.I could look up all the pertinent data, the exact specifications and numbers and settings and what developers were recommended to process the film (I liked HC110) but it doesn't really matter, it's what you did to take the pictures and to print them, it was all part of the craft of photography.

                                      The Pond Mills Bridge, London, Ontario

But the results were magic.

                                        Creeping Charlie and the Old Clarinet

I always felt that there was a bit of magic to photography, maybe a bit less so in this digital day and age (or just a different sort of magic, the kind that deals with computers and programs that allow you to manipulate images), but magic none the less, and particularly in the case of infrared film and the resulting prints. There is an extra element here because you were, and I mean I was, never a hundred percent sure what the final image was going to come out looking like. Oh you had an idea, that's for sure, but the tenth muse always put in an appearance. The name of that muse is serendipity.

                                            Cloud and Tree, Toronto, Ontario 

I came to love the muse and the things she showed me, particularly when she was in one of her playful moods, when she did something special with the light. Here I've picked just a few examples for you that I hope you'll enjoy.

                                                        Country Cemetery

I still plan to play with infrared photography in this digital age (you can see an example in an earlier posting) but it isn't quite the same and it's taking me longer to come to terms with the muse's requirements. Still, it's part of the journey, isn't it.

The Graces at the Guild Inn

In a tucked away corner of Toronto, actually Scarborough (near the bluffs), is a garden. Within this garden are stone sculptures and the remains of the frontages of a few of the buildings that used to grace the downtown core. Mainly these frontages were banks, perhaps all of them were, but they all represent things that used to be, buildings that used to stand ornate and proud. They were built, for the most part I would say, at the end of the 1800's and the beginning of the 1900's, decorated with columns and figures and scrollwork, the style of the age, built before glass and steel took over and created the current canyons of downtown. These facades and this sculpture now sit, for the most part, in the garden behind the shell of an old hotel.

The garden now is a popular place for people to stroll. It has also become a popular site for wedding photography (fees paid to the city). You can even exit through a gate at the back of the property and get a look at Lake Ontario from the top of the bluffs, or continue to wander along the paths that follow the top of the cliff.

The hotel itself, the Guild Inn, was built in at least two stages. There was the original and much smaller structure, and I guess that it was pretty swank at one time, with a popular restaurant and lounge located within, and then a hotel of 7 stories was built alongside it. Both sections have long been closed and boarded up, left to the ministrations of the weather and of the seasons. The city, it turns out, owns the property. I don't know any of the details on how that occurred but at some point in time I may feel the urge to do a little research on the site and see what I can dig up. The important thing to remember here though is that the city is not in the hotel business. The site has been fenced off and closed now for years.

The hotel part will soon be torn down. Workers are already preparing the site.

Located at the rear of the hotel and on the back elevated terrace are more slabs and sculpture and figures. These are being carefully removed before the hotel comes down. Cradles and scaffolding and chain hoists are being set in place for the salvage effort. I was told that eventually the pieces will be transferred to other places within the garden area. I hope they take great care in this endeavor because I'm in love with a number of the female figures that have long stood here, whom I have come to term 'the graces'. I call them that because they have inspired me on numerous occasions to come look at them and to photograph them (which I have done fairly extensively, and printed their images as well). There are six of these figures altogether, life sized, in three main groupings, each group having two of the women on a panel. They are basically crests. The actual names on these crests are Industry, Intelligence and Agriculture. I've seen similar crests in other places, often adorning public buildings (and not just limited to this province, Ontario. I've seen similar figures, but not so detailed, in places like Victoria, British Columbia).

To back up the story a little bit I wanted to say that sometimes there are events which occur that just seem meant to be. Everybody has had them. Whether you think of these times as chance or happenstance, they are, to steal the term, 'meaningful coincidences'. They happen, you derive (and I think it has to be special) meaning from the event. I don't think that they are what was originally intended by the word 'synchronistic', but that does give the flavour of what I'm attempting to convey. In this case there was a string of ordinary events that led up to a special payoff.

The first event, outside of the daily routine, was a telephone call from a long time friend, one that I don't see very much anymore. His name is Walter. It was his suggestion to get together and to go out and revisit the place I had taken him to the last time we got together a month or more earlier. Guess where? This time he would bring his camera gear. And he has nice camera gear. Walter is a representative for a major photographic software company who has published books on it's use and gives seminars across Canada, Europe and the United States.

If it weren't for Walter's urge or whatever to call and to go to the Guild site we might never have seen the 'girls' in situ again.

We spent quite a bit of time photographing around the hotel. I was actually kind of surprised that Walter and I didn't get kicked out of there, where the workmen were constructing the scaffolding and doing other getting ready type of work. Sometimes I think it's an advantage being friendly and up front. We strolled in as if we owned the place, I think we even asked the worker we met if it was okay to be there and he said yes. So we set down our camera bags and started photographing.

An additional benefit of all this attention on the figures was that workmen had cleared the vines and weeds that had grown in and around the figures, and although the growth was one of the charms of the setting for me, particularly the vines, it did have it's benefits. This was the first time that I had seen the entire sets of figures without overgrowth. One set was still in shade from a sumac growing close by but you have to take what you can get sometimes.

In another pleasing coincidence we also happened to meet the woman in charge of the salvage project, named Sandra I believe, who works for the City of Toronto. When the initial introductions were being made she asked if we were professional photographers. I said that I was just the talented amateur and Walter was the professional.Walter and her ended up exchanging cards, I exchanged hello's. It was from her that we learned what was happening.

Sandra is the one who told us that the hotel part of the Guild (at least) is being demolished. Even she was not sure of the fate of the original Guild Inn. I hope the ladies, my graces, don't suffer from the experience of being relocated.

Before deciding to head for home Walter and I also walked and photographed the rest of the garden grounds as well. Back in the old days, before digital photographic technology, I used to take photographs using infrared film. I'm just in the process of checking out how to do something similar with my digital camera and used this occasion to try. I took one archway, which I thought might be a good subject, and ran a test. The results that came about were pretty nice. The exposure was something like f56 at 10 seconds.
Nice day all around.